July 11, 2010

Bang Phil Market: A Whole Lot More Than a Great Place to Shop


Since Bang Phil Yai in Samut Prakan province is home
to numerous factories, it’s well known for being
an industrial district. But despite these signs of modern
development, Bang Phil’s historic market continues to thrive,
impressing visitors with its charming sense of nostalgia.

Originally known as Sirisophon Market, Bang Phil Market has enjoyed good times and endured less pleasant periods, too, during its lengthy history. The market was established in 1857 on completion of the construction of the 85-kilometer-long Klong Samrong (‘Samrong Canal’), which connected the Bang Pakong River with the Chao Phraya River.

New Era
During those early days, the canal served as a vital transportation route, so the market always tended to be crowded and lively. But when the local road network improved, water transportation lost its allure and the market’s popularity also gradually declined. Nevertheless, while several other markets existed alongside the canal during the market’s early years, today Bang Phil Market is the ‘sole survivor’.


Thanks to some assistance from a joint project between Bang Phil Municipality and King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology Lad Krabang called Project of Culture and Art Preservation, as well as its excellent locale near the famous temple of Wat Bang Phil Yai Nai; Bang Phil market has become one of the province’s most popular tourist destinations.

Boat Adventure
Located right in front of the market is a booth selling tickets for a boat trip that visits several nearby temples, including Wat Bang Phil Yai Klang, Wat Bang Chalong Nok and Wat Bang Chalong Nai. The trip, which takes about one hour and 40 minutes, costs 40 baht (US$1.20) for adults and 20 baht for children.

Covering a stretch of about 500 meters alongside the canal, the market is made up of one and two-storey wooden houses, which are separated by a narrow path. While the market opens daily, it's at its liveliest on Sundays when the vendors offer a huge variety of foods and other kinds of merchandise.


The market isn't too ‘touristy’ either, so you won’t find any souvenir shops selling T-shirts or key chains as the vendors tend to sell everyday goods, such as pots, woven baskets, tin toys and sarongs. In fact, it's the market’s simplicity and the nostalgia it generates that keeps the tourists flooding back.

Delicious Desserts
While there are plenty of dining options located around the market, I dropped into a store run by Khun Nit, who sells grilled sticky rice with a range of different fillings. At a nearby outlet, I bought some thoroughly delicious khamon bueang (a kind of crispy pancake).

At the center of the market I discovered that there is a small museum, which provides lots of useful information in Thai and English, covering everything you might need to know about the market, its merchants, as well as local culture.

The exhibition also reflects the efforts of the Project of Culture and Art Preservation in reviving the market, as well as featuring details of the stories of merchants who spent their lives working and trading at the market.


Entrepreneurial Flair
When you reach the end of Bang Phil market, you'll see a branch of the Big C supermarket chain along with two large boats tied together to provide convenient access. This enterprise was established by a former boatman who managed to turn a crisis into a golden opportunity.

The owner of the boats was facing a struggle in terms of his livelihood as a boatman when the local road network improved, so when Big C opened, he decided to create the bridge by tying together his two boats. While it may not necessarily be ideal, it's certainly the most convenient way for locals to get to and fro between the old market and the modern shopping complex. However, this isn't a free service as the boatman turned entrepreneur charges a ‘bridge toll’ of one baht per crossing. The enterprise can even be said to have become a form of trademark for the area over recent years thanks to the attention this unusual structure has generated.

Transport Connections:
Car: From Bangkok, take Bang Na-Trad Road (Highway 3) to Samut Prakan province’s Bang Phil Yai district. Make a U-turn once you pass the Bang Phil Market for Agricultural Products and take route 3256, which you’ll see on your left. Follow this road for three kilometers and then turn left into Nam Daeng Road, which will soon lead you to Wat Bang Phil Yai Nai. There is a parking lot located right next to the temple.













By: TAN network



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